Christmas at Hmong New Year with the Buddhists and Khmu!
Christmas in non-Christian countries is certainly
different. The uptake of certain
Christmas traditions, even here in Laos in a profoundly Buddhist and Anamistic
country, was touching – token things such as Christmas trees and decorations, making
of cards, and the odd smattering of Christmas cheer with a heartfelt ‘Merry
Christmas’.
GVI volunteers celebrated in some very special and unique
ways in Luang Prabang. On Christmas Eve
four lucky volunteers headed out to Ban Luk Sip – a mostly Khmu village about
10km away from town – to teach English and play with the children of the
village for the morning. This week they
were making Christmas cards, which although odd was warmly embraced and
enthusiastically carried out. Afterwards
we took some Christmassy photos and said farewell for another two weeks.
Following this our volunteers had the honour of an
invitation to a largely Hmong village, where families were celebrating Hmong
New Year and the calling back of the body’s spirits. Much chanting by the shaman, clucking of
chickens (and their ultimate demise in ritual bleeding, boiling and then
fortune telling), eggs, sampling ‘Hmong pizza’ and partaking in a basi (blessing
ceremony) in which we were each blessed by the shaman for good health for the
coming year. Although a feast was
prepared, we had to be off to our next engagement....
Mr Nii and GVI staff Sam |
GVI hosted a Xmas Eve party at a Lao-style BBQ restaurant, spreading
the season’s cheer with our Lao colleagues – all who make a vital contribution
to the project....from teachers to school directors to our drivers and guest
house owners. The meat sizzled, beer and
wine flowed, and much merriment was enjoyed.
Secret Santa gifts were swapped amongst volunteers and our valued GVI
partners received a small gift of thanks.
GVI-hosted dinner with teachers |
Christmas Day was celebrated by volunteers in their own ways – some heading back to another Hmong Village for day 2 of celebrations (where the spectacle of traditional garb is a sight to behold), one doing a weaving course, lunch cruises on the Mekong River, and parties and feasting at various venues around town. I think it’s fair to say it was a Christmas with a difference, but a wonderful weekend all the same and some very special memories of the closing of 2011.
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